Jungle Road

I wanted it all  – palm trees,  a white sand beach,  and clear warm water.  I also wanted it on a budget, and for myself.  So far I had not found that perfect combination.  The owner of my guesthouse in Trang suggested I visit Koh Tarutao if I was looking for nicer beaches and fewer tourists.  The ferry ride was not long, in calm seas.   This island is one of the stops for the many tour companies offering day trips to 4 or 5 islands.  Some tours only stop here for 15 minutes.  If you are staying, you must pay your park entrance fee, then at the Park office you choose your accommodation – there was not a lot of choices as there are only park bungalows or tents to rent.  I was staying at Ao Molae 4 kilometres from the pier.  As I waited for the shuttle I read signs warning of noseeums, monkeys breaking into cabins, and pythons in trees.

My Bungalow
Outdoor Shower

This island was at one time a prison colony and has never allowed outside development.  My bungalow was perfect, and on a beach that was ideal.  There was a line of garbage just above the high tide line.  The Goddess of the Sea did not want man’s garbage, so this was nature’s way to return it.

A Perfect Beach
Returned Garbage

An outdoor shower served both sides of each bungalow building.  There was one cafe with restricted opening hours.  The staff were armed.  I do not know who thought water guns might be a deterrent to monkeys, obviously, no one told the monkeys as they swooped in and stole food off plates as we ate.  Electricity from solar panels was available from 6 – 11 pm.  There was no wifi.  I swam and walked the beach several times each day.  I always had both the beach and the sea to myself.  The social life revolved around dinner and sunsets at the cafe.  One day I decided to go for a walk down the jungle road. The jungle was so thick you could not see anything, but there were lots of sounds.  Monkeys were playing a wild game of Tarzan.  The trees formed a canopy over the road, and I could not avoid thinking of the warning of snakes in trees, so I did not walk far.  Four days of time alone, on a beach,  and I was rejuvenated to carry on with my adventure.  Every silver lining has a cloud – and the only cloud here was the constant threat of thieving monkeys.  I had found what I was looking for.


Small and Fancy Tuk-tuks
Another Style of Tuk-tuks

I only went to Trang for a couple of nights.  My plans were indefinite and I was hoping to access more information from there as to my next destinations.  Leaving Koh Lanta I rode in a van with a local woman and her cute little gal.  They were obviously going to a party as the little gal had on a fancy dress and sparkly gold shoes.  She was so shy and moved so her mother was sitting next to me.  I got out my Ipad and showed her some photos of our dog.  Once I did that we were friends and she sat beside me for the entire trip.  Once again only hug taxis were available at the bus terminal.  Again, I stood my ground and got a tuktuk.  Here they were very small and I had to sit hunched over in the back, and as usual, hit my head often.  I had booked a guesthouse in Trang and my room had a balcony.  I expected to sit on my balcony, have my  coffee and write my notes.  Well, my room did have a balcony – and I have posted a couple of photos – certainly no view!

My Balcony
View from my Balcony


The Chinese New Year celebrations were taking part only a block from my hotel. Chinese people were setting off firecrackers all day and there were long lineups to buy lottery tickets.  Along the street leading to the celebrations there were a series of large paintings of the former King.  People were lined up to have their photo taken with each of the paintings.  The party  was a fun time with lots of food and entertainment.  Many children were dressed in traditional outfits.  My guesthouse was booked for the following night so I had to move – only a couple of blocks. Before I left I was speaking to the owner and asking his recommendations for places to see.  He said he was sure I would enjoy Koh Tarulao an unspoiled island.   My new place was near the train station, and the night market.  There was a large building across the street that appeared to be under deconstruction.  I learned it had been damaged by a terrorist’s bomb.  Fortunately, the bomb detonated during the night, so no injuries or death.

Chinese New Year
Kids in Cute Outfits


Nice to walk on this beach
Beach massage
Typical Tuk-Tuk






The ferry from Phuket to Koh Phi Phi goes past where the movie “The Beach” was filmed.  My ferry stopped in Koh Phi Phi but I did not stay there.  I could tell by the number of people I saw arriving  it would be far too crowded for me.  I changed ferries and went on to Koh Lanta. I had heard the beach was nice, and not so crowded.   As usual the arrival of the ferry caused mayhem and tuk-tuk drivers increased their rates to meet the demand.  I went for lunch and by the time I had finished things were much quieter – and the tuk-tuk rate to my resort was less than half what it had been an hour ago.  Tuk-tuks here were a motorcycle with a box side car with two benches.  My little Moslem gal driver drove like a bat our of hell, not bothering to slow down for the many potholes. My head hit the roof many times.


My bamboo bungalow
Door lock
Clean and basic






I had always wanted to stay in a little bamboo hut on the beach and I could do that here.  Huts were as cute as could be.  The beach was fine, but once again, I could only swim at high tide.  It was a very social place.  As everyone met in the little cafe for the complimentary breakfast names and plans were exchanged.  I met a great gal from Germany who was Turkish and great fun to spend a couple of days with.    It was a lazy location.  I enjoyed reading on my deck and walking on the beach.  On the way into “town” there was the funkiest cafe I have ever seen.    The walls and roof were made of plants.  Each table was at a different level, and each table was completely private as walls of plants separted each one.  I had dinner there one night and it was one of the best meals of my trip – coconut curry shrimp.

Funky cafe
Awesome dinner $6